Way Outback Camping in Kakadu Day 3

The previous evening, Kim had told us that the walk into Jimjim Falls would be the hardest yet, over boulders to a slippery rock entrance into the waterhole. She also said that Twin Falls was not running at all, so the group would not be going there. Well, I had no intention of getting halfway to Jimjim and having to turn back to wait in the heat by the van. No. By morning JD decided to join me in skipping the trip to Jimjim Falls. We were not alone! It turned out that several others had made the same decision - about half of the whole group is my guess. JD and I were dismayed to find the rare rude helper at the reception desk of Kakadu Lodge was a young Canadian woman. She was less than helpful in giving us directions to the Bowali Cultural Centre. Sure enough, following her directions, we walked along the highway and made a wrong turn. We walked a long way down a dirt road until we hit a deadend. Sigh. We turned around and headed back.

The Crocodile Hotel was a short way further up the road. Dripping with sweat and desparate for shade, we headed for the mouth-like entry. What a relief. We walked into a fabulous gallery of Aboriginal art. Furthermore, we were able to watch a painter working on a new brolga painting. With a little help from the receptionist, and a better map, we found our way to the Bowali Cultural Centre. It was midday at this point, making for a very hot, shade to shade, far too long, walk through the bush to the centre. On our way, we met some of the other campers on their return. There it was at last and well-worth the trek. A coffee shop, documentary film room, museum, and a shop/gallery. I didn't buy anything. But Katie in the shop/gallery explained the mimis to me. She also recommended that we talk to Dave at Oenpilli re our old bark paintings. We watched a doc about croc control, went to the museum, had a cup of coffee, and walked back to the Crocodile Hotel. There we detoured to a bakery where we saw two uniformed gents in an SUV.

We bought a bit of lunch and cold drinks. I asked one of the men if he would be driving past Kakadu Lodge. Both men gallantly offered us a ride to our gate, which was in fact only a short way down the road. No matter! We really appreciated the lift. Anyway, it turned out that they were teachers who take Aboriginal students on field trips. Perhaps we met them in Palm Valley on our Glen Helen tour!?

Thankful to get back to camp, we put on our bathing suits and spent the rest of the afternoon at the pool with others who skipped Jimjim. Eventually, the folks who did go joined us along with Kim, until she called us for dinner. As we lingered at the table, Kim told us that the 4-day group would go to Arnhemland with another guide on Day 4 while she and the 5-day group would leave for Katherine at dawn. This news was kind of upsetting and unexpected - we thought we would separate after the day at Injalak. So, it was back to the bar and pool for the final camp night and goodbyes to many. By the end of the evening, M and A had set up a fb page for our group and as a way to keep in touch.

Way Outback Camping in Kakadu Day 2

As soon as we finished breakfast Kim drove us to the Yellow Waters Cruise. This was on a billabong which is part of the Jimjim waterways. It becomes a huge floodplain in the wet season. Even at the end of the dry, looking from the dock, the water stretched off in all directions around and through thick vegetation. In the distance we could see a field where a small herd on brumbies (wild horses) grazed. As luck would have it, and such luck remained with us throughout our stay in Australia, the guide on the cruise boat was absolutely fantastic. When he caught on to the fact that several in our party were interested, he made sure to point out birds as well as crocodiles along the way. Female crocs kept a territory of 20-30 metres along the banks. So we saw lots of them. The big 4.8 metre male cruised along beside us at times. Funnily, he ducked underwater in distain for the advances of one female. The birds, too numerous to name them all, kept us busy looking here and there. A comb-crested jacana walked on thin stilt legs over the huge lotus leaves. A brilliant tiny azure kingfisher posed for photos. And our barge glided up to the bank so we could see the perfect little basket that was a willy wagtail nest. Somewhere during the cruise, a lone water buffalo stood in the brush close to the water, never quite revealing his entire enormous self. The canopy above the seats on the deck cut the direct sun, making it comfortable. We stayed out on the water for the entire morning.

We had lunch back at camp Cooinda then quickly packed and cleaned the tents and cookhouse. It was another long drive to Kakadu Lodge at Jabiru. Along the way, we took in Nourlangie, a good walk and climb that gave us some idea of the way Aboriginal people lived in this place over the centuries. Kim was pretty well-versed in the lore. At the start of the walk was a sign featuring six photos. But 3 had been removed. That followed the tradition of removing the name and image of someone after death, the length of time depending on the customs of the particular community. Hoever, one gentleman, Big Bill Niedjie, instrumental in the development of Kakadu National Park, and its recognition as a heritage site, held his wake before he died. He told his people he would find hs way back to country in three days. Bill declared that they could restore his image and use his name then. He wanted Kakadu and its stories shared with visitors. We visited several caves and rock art galleries. Kim told the stories very well.

It was hot! By the time we made our way to Kakadu Lodge, we were ready for a break. This campground was crowded and at the edge of the grounds, with the wash house quite a walk away. But in the centre stood a bar and pool, encircled with a hedge, lawn, tables and chairs. We quickly organized the tents and headed for the pool for a refreshing swim.

The walk and climb up Ubirr was even more spectacular than Nourlangie. The aim was to watch the sunset from Ubirr but there were a number of rock art galleries along the path to the summit. As we left the main gallery we found an observer above us - a small grey walleroo. Beautiful thing! With a bit of effort, we came up onto a plateau, a flat open space cut with a few rock walls. The final height, which promised a 365 degree view loomed above us. And a lot of people were heading up, including families with small children. However, a bunch of us skipped the final climb, settled onto a low wall with our cameras, and the sunset was beautiful anyway!

Once the sun was down, we quickly descended in the twilight, the afterglow. It was quite dark by the time the stragglers made it back to the van. Kim whipped up another terrific meal and we all tucked in. After dinner, the evening was quieter than the previous one. The wash house was busy with showers after the heat of the day, and the two climbs. It was early to bed that night.

Way Outback Camping in Kakadu Day 1 p.m.

Kim made up for breakfast by taking us to lunch at the mango place. I don't remember its name, unfortunately - Kim told us we could get the best mango smoothie in the world there, and she wasn't kidding. We rode through mango orchards to get there. They are one of the few harvests that thrive in that part of the country. I added a bag of dried mango slices to my stash of snacks. This was the one lunch we had to buy - the food and coffee was excellent!

Lunch finished, we set off on the long drive into Kakadu National Park, much of it over dirt roads. We began to see more and more termite mounds among the trees and in open fields. We stopped at a viewing boardwalk which encircled a huge cathedral mound (yellow) on one side of the site, and a field of magnetic mounds (grey) on the other. The cathedrals, as you might expect, are like tall rounded towers piled one upon the other, deep and wide and high. The magnetic, on the other hand, are wide shallow peaks so thin in the top half you would think they would break in a stiff breeze - more a wall than a mound. Appoarently, scientists tried turning them off their north-south axis and found the internal temperature changed immediately.

Warned that it was our last chance if we wanted to enjoy a drink by the fire that night, we stopped at a roadhouse to buy snacks and booze - a 4-pack of Jack and Dry (gingerale) for me. At last we arrived at Cooinda campground in Kakadu. I think we crossed the South Alligator River to get there - a notorious crossing where many people stuck in high water have had to be dragged out of car windows to safety by one of the tour boat operators. Lots of crocodiles! All branches of the Alligator river are tidal and the crossing was dry when we drove over it. What crocs there were kept their distance. At last we reached Cooinda Campground in time to select tents and make our beds - no swags under the stars. It was already too hot and humid for such heavy sleeping bags. Once our tent was ready, I set out to gather a bit more firewood and made the mistake of picking up a small log infested with green ants. Man, do they bite when disturbed! I tossed that stik away and added my meager bits and pieces to the pile. Kim made dinner quickly and I had a big plate of roasted veggies, avoiding the beef and veggie substitute on offer. JD and some of the others discovered that they could find small wolf spiders on the path by making their eyes gleam with flashlights. The campfire roared under the stars and I helped one of the women toast mashmallows - she did not like the burnt sugar result, funnily enough. I wonder what she had expected!

The night was stifling, so underwear was enough. But sometime in the night, I pulled the sleeping bag up over myself and slept under it until the sun crept into the tent.

Final Day in Alice Springs

August 26 was our last full day in Alice Springs. The internet was down and we were without a car. Fortunately, as we were leaving for the day intending to walk or bus downtown, we met the permanent tenant. She had been away in Adelaide. Cathy works at the town hospital and she gave us a ride to Todd Mall. We ran few errands to complete our camping supplies. Then we walked down and across the dry Todd River to Olive Pink Botanic Gardens. I was curious about the name - it is named after a woman, Miss Olive Muriel Pink! Well, the garden is interesting, but Colin had been so knowledgeable about vegetation as well as birds, as had Justin been in Uluru, that we didn't think we would see much of anything new. No. Only a pair of western bower birds courting in his bower, with the male dancing and flaring the pink ruff on the back of his neck! We took photos and watched the pair for a long time. The cafe was closed of course (if I have any complaint about this entire country it is the habit of early closing, like at 3 or 4 if not 5, everywhere!) So there was nothing for it but to follow the road that ran along the Todd River back to our neighbourhood. Along the way, we came to the Hilton, and decided on dinner at the Deck there. As in so many places, and even though this was a little more high end than most places where we dined, we ordered at the bar and paid upfront, were given a number, and the food was delivered to the table. No worries at the Deck. Our meals were delicious! It was an easy walk to our place from there, to pack for the flight to Darwin.

I have to say it again, in case I didn't say it before: Becky and Craig were great hosts. He drove us to the airport on August 27. It had been fun to meet Becky's friend, Colleen, and Craig's son, Kieran. And I am glad we met Cathy, who keeps the water tub full behind the property, for the birds, the roos, and the invisible dingo. Oh, I almost forgot - besides the mother and half-grown joey that we spotted a few times behind the place, we saw a similar pair bounding about Olive Pink as we were leaving. They are called Euros, at least that's what I thought. They are a soft blond tan colour. But in the Olive Pink brochure one is identified as a Black-footed Rock Wallaby...hmmm. So, goodbye to Alice Springs! It has been a wonderful base for our red centre adventure.

Glen Helen Tour Day 2

Colin packed the secnd half of my GF egg and bacon sandwich after breakfast, saying that he already had a GF chicken sandwich for my lunch. That was OK! I finished my breakfast sandwich at coffee break. Or should I say, morning tea?

Colin started us at the Mt Sonders lookout, different in the morning light. Then on over hill and dale of alluvial sand and stones where once a huge river or inland sea flowed. I think it was from a high point there - Tyler's Pass, I think - that we could see three of the MacDonnell ranges and across the desert at the end of the alluvial section, at a great distance, the walls of Gosse Bluff as red as the ranges. On we went up Davenport Creek to Roma Gorge - I hope I have that right as I cannot find it on a map. Access on foot was a bit of a challenge, but worth the effort. The narrow waterhole was lined with steep smooth rock, trees, and shrubs. As luck would have it, not only was there a flock of zebra finches, but a large flock of budgerigars. They are notoriously shy. However, as groups of birds took turns perching on a small ledge to drink from the water, we had clear views of both species. The one thing we did not see at any of these sites were rock wallabys. On to Gosse Bluff or Tnorala Impact Crater. A gap in the wall led us to a 5 km wide shaded sandy floor. Colin stopped for lunch at what could have been a camp site. Good grub, again. And wouldn't you know, we were visited by fairie wrens - the Slendid blue one. Didn't he just hop about and pose for JD's camera. Then Colin showed us a bower bird bower. In fact there was another bower, rundown and abandoned, nearby. But no bower birds to be seen. The best part of the Gosse, of course, was climbing the small incline to the boundary toward the centre of the crater bowl. From there we had a 360 degree view of the walls. There were two sets of signs at that point. One explained that the centre of the crater had exploded outward to create a far circular rim now seen only from space. Where we stood was debris that had fallen into the bowl as huge walls had erupted up from 5 km below the earth. I still have no idea what the meteor was like that hit in anicient times. But there are two aboriginal stories here. The first links the crater to a child that fell to earth. Two women, dancing in the milky way, danced so hard they rocked a cradle until the baby fell to earth and created the crater. The morning and evening star are the parents still looking for the child. I hope I am not offending by sharing this story. However, our guide told us so I believe it is okay to share it. The second story has to do with a community of people who used to live in the crater in ancient times. There was a conflict with a neighbouring community, which lead to a massacre, which made that half of the crater bowl a place of sorrow, like a burial ground. So the way was barred and visitors were asked to go no further. No one had lived in the crater since.

The longest ride up a river bed led into Palm Valley. We had heard it was impossible without 4WD. No kidding! As soon as we got to the start of the walk into the valley itself, we began to see palms here and there along the path. Some were called cabbage palms, and some seemed to be just the fronds growing straight out of the ground. The further in we went, the denser the palm growth until it was the majority of the vegetation. At the end of the walk, we came out onto the shore of the river that runs through the valley. Wide flattish rocks, pockmarked by shallow depressions. Many of them were rimmed with a whitish line. Colin explained how the water table would push water up through the rock, collecting minerals as it seeped through into small pools and leaving salt rims as it evaporated. After exploring the terrain of the valley floor, we started the climb up the side of the valley. Huffing and puffing and sweating gallons, I did it. On the way up we met a group of 8 or 9 aboriginal schoolboys in uniform practically running down the path. Weirdly, we may have met the same two teachers who were with them when we were in Kakadu. More on that later. From the top of the valley wall, we looked across the river bed at the length of the palm stand. Colin pointed out the large gap in height caused by the over-pasturing of the station that encompassed the valley. Cattle are no longer allowed into the valley and the palm growth patterns have recovered. The decent into Palm Valley was far easier. Colin had to push us a bit, having lingered too long birdwatching and discussing varioius sights.

What that meant in the long run, is that on our return to Alice Springs, eary enough for Colin to commute back to Glen Helen, we had to give Hermannsburg a skip. It is an important historic precinct. Everyone asked if we had gone to Hermannsburg. We drove by it. Enough at the end of two splendid days, thanks to Roger and Colin and the staff at Glen Helen Homestead. If you go to Alice Springs, give them a call. It's an experience you do not want to miss.

Glen Helen 2-day Tour August 24 & 25, 2016

Thanks to the recommendation of one of L & B's friends, we booked a 2-day tour by Glen Helen Homestead Lodge. In turn, we highly recommend it. www.glenhelen.com.au (I will come back to these blogs in a few weeks time, when I have other online links at hand and can post them.) After Uluru, this tour was the next big highlight of our trip. It was a personalized tour with an experienced guide willing to cater a bit to our interests while hitting many beautiful spots in the West MacDonnell Ranges that it was a little hard to keep track of of them all after the fact. Book the tour directly with Sheila, who runs Glen Helen Homestead along with her husband Colin, one of the guides. It includes meals and overnight at the Lodge.

On Day 1 our guide Roger picked us up at our accommodations in Alice Springs. We threw our little duffle bags into the back of the 4WD and away we went. Now I might not get all of these spots in order. I'd need a map for that. I may leave some out. But this is what I remember. First stop was Flynn's Grave, just past Desert Park on Larapinta Drive. Flynn was the founder of the Flying Doctors, a much respected and honoured man. His grave is marked with a huge boulder, a replacement for the first one that had been a sacred stone mistakenly taken from a place of women's business. This replacement was given by the local Arrernte community. On to Simpsons Gap, so called as it is a divide in the range. Then to Standley Chasm, which is a place where the water in flood has dug a pit where it is forced between the rocks. Beautiful! Ellery Creek Bighole was similar, but it is a permanent waterhole, even in the dry season and we saw it at the end of the dry. Each of these places has its own spectacular upclose view of the red walls and tumbles of rock that make up the Ranges. There were birds at some, and Roger was patient to wait while JD snapped a few photos. Roger assured us that on Day 2 there would be more birds to see. At some point along a river bed, possibly the Serpentine Gorge, we stopped for morning coffee. The legs of the folding chairs sank into the sand. No GF muffins, but nuts and terrific banana chips, an apple and fresh coffee. Alright! At the end of the morning, nothing had prepared us for the sight of the Ochre Pits. Here the Rainbow Serpent came alive and the notion that the ochre is sacred made perfect sense. Since ancient times, aboriginal peoples travelled to the pits to dig and trade the ochre in all its forms - red, yellow, white, and rare purple. The layers formed eons ago erupted into sharp angles and almost vertical stripes. The walk took us through a shallow canyon with an ever changing vista. Signs asked that we not dig or remove any of the ochre in respect for the owners and caretakers of that country. Of course, we came across one couple who had scraped a small heart and their initials into a saucer sized piece on the ground. All for the sake of a selfie. Romantic? Good grief. Thank goodness most folks show the respect requested or the entire site would be spoiled. Everything else that we saw was pristine and all of it was beautiful.

At Glen Helen Homestead we stopped for lunch and had our first look at the place. Roger gave us the historical background and a chance to look through the rooms and at the art. We checked into our Lodge room with ensuite. Very simple and comfortable. GF bread for my toastie! Good tea. The homestead is situated right at Glen Helen Gorge. There was still some water. However, it was shallow enough that we were able to cross at a narrow spot using stepping stones. When we reached the water hole, it was easy to imagine swimming there at the end of a long hot workday.

After our lunch break, Roger drove on to Ormiston Gorge, his personal favourite, and it was easy to see why. The path was above the river bed, less arduous than some. At the waterhole, the riverbed was wide, the rocks flat and smooth. The far side was a sizable beach, that a few people were walking. I chose to sit on a rock and write postcards while JD and Roger climbed to the lookout over the gorge. It was shady and calm by the water. A good place. When the guys got back, Roger took a long drive up a dry river bed to Redbank Gorge where there was water - a known camping spot for 4WDs. We walked along the shore. More birds. We ended the day with a drive up above that spot to a lookout to Mt Sonder, which tells the story of the sleeping pregnant woman. Her head, breasts, belly, and legs were visible in its peaks. Roger, who runs the bar at the homestead, surprised us with a cold beer for JD and a generous shot of Jack Daniels for me. Laughter all around as we watched the sun go down.

For dinner at Glen Helen Homested, we opted for mains and desserts from the tour menu - award winning food and leisurely service gave us the time to think and chat about the day. I can't honestly remember what we ordered, we were that tired, but it was terrific. After a nightcap in the bar, we settled in for a good sleep.

Desert Park Day Pass in Alice Springs

On Tuesday, August 23, we had the car until 5 pm. What local excursion could we fit in that would best make use of the car? As we were considering the Telegraph Station or east McDonells as far as Ross River, we realized that our day passes for Desert Park were running out. So we finished the laundry and spent the afternoon at the Park. We arrived at the Nocturnal House in time to pick up a guided talk - more information and a closer look in the dim light at some of the critters we had seen on the night walk. But the best bits were the snakes and lizards that we were not to see otherwise. Brown snake is a misnomer - it is a member of the black snack familly and comes in many shades. They are all called Mulga snakes. Never mistake a snake for a legless lizard - that could be a deadly. Do not stop to check. Just slowly and carefully move off in the other direction! The last stop was the thorny devil window - an odd lizard with plates armoured by sharp points, all the valleys providing channels for water droplets to flow into its mouth. Its legs are all akimbo, making any movement look animatronic :) Anyway, JD took the long loop and saw kangaroos, emus, and lots of birds. I went to the bush medicine talk - really neat! - and the dingo demonstration. The ranger, Matt, filled us in on the pair: pure dingo, brother and sister, ambassadors for dingos, fixed against breeeding. He told us how the banning and culling of dingos increased the proliferation of feral cats and foxes that wiped out whole populations of small nocturnal creatures. And one of the greatest threats to the dingo is the viable interbreeding with feral dogs. Meanwhile the keeper walked from place to place tossing bits of food to keep the dingos moving, jumping, catching and climbing to display their lithe lean physiques. Very interesting! JD and I met up at the bird exhibit which is always fun. In the open amphitheatre the keeper asked everyone to remain seated with their arms down as the rapters were to fly low over the crowd. What clever birds! The magpie started the show, followed by a curlew who strutted among the bleachers, a barn owl that appeared out of the top of a tall stump, and a burble owl that was impossibly cute. Then came the swift flying hobby, a beautiful sleek bird, blue grey above and russet below, zipping around to take the bait. The final pair were a whistling and a black kite. A terrific show. They used to have a wedge-tailed eagle, but rumour has it that it tried to land on the pulled up hoodie of a 12 year-old boy. So no more eagle! Desert Park remains top of my list for Alice Springs. Don't miss it.

Return drive from Uluru to Alice Springs

After a terrifc breakfast buffet at the Bough House, we checked out and headed back to Alice Springs. We stopped at the roadhouses we had missed on the way down. To be honest, they are all a bit of a blur at this point. All fully serviceable but none that stands out for a recommendation. There is one place with a sort of bird santuary or zoo, that we checked out for birds we might not see otherwise. We stopped again at the Mt. Connor lookout, beautiful as before, but more to see if any of the great salt lake was visible from that place. It is not. At the Finke River crossing we pulled in and wallked down to the river bed, delighted to find some water still there at the end of the dry season. It was not flowing, but enough to have a few fish traps still set up. We had the place to ourselves until a busload of tourists arrived just as we were leaving. To refresh our understanding of the country we were driving through, we replayed the CD of the trip From Alice Springs to Uluru, running the tracks 9, 8, 7... Especially the bits we had missed on the way down. Hearing that the meteor craters were accessible by regular vehicle, we turned off to see them. However, a "4WD vehicle recommended" sign stopped us in our tracks and we turned back. The Camry rental agreement said sealed roads only. Besides, we did not want to get mired somewhere out in the middle of the back of beyond! We arrived in Alice Springs tired and happy, ready to have dinner and turn in. We parked at Todd Mall (a street mall) and ate at Sporties that night, I believe. We followed three great big guys down the mall, listening to them talking sports all the way. We expected a dark bar filled with TV Sports screens everywhere. Surprise! Sporties is a bright blue, white, and silver diner, with a full bar, large menu, and friendly service. A perfect way to end the day!

Sunset at Kata Tjuta

With our last full day at Uluru waning, we drove to Kata Tjuta to watch the sunset. The viewing station is between the western horizon and the domes of this complex geological site. Its name means 'many heads' and it is still so sacred that there is little talked of it. However, if we ever come again, we will spend several more days to walk into the Valley of the Winds and other parts of it. At the end of our long walk at Uluru, we were content to stand with the other pilgrims, backs to the sun, watching the changing colours and shadows on the domes and in the sky around them. We had a number of pleasant conversations with other watchers. Then we drove back to the resort in time to  make a reservation for dinner at the Bough House, where we enjoyed a leisurely meal and a double helping of GF panna cotta for dessert!

Uluru: 2nd Day Base Walk

We saved the Mala Walk and the Base Walk for our final day at Uluru. From parking at the base of the climb to the return point, the Mala Walk must add a full km to the 11+kms of the base walk. I was determined to complete the walk. This was my bucket list item - of all of our Australian trip outings, the most important one to me. No one should attempt this feat without being fully prepared. Because of the cold mornings at this time of year, we took our time and did not begin until close to 11 a.m. OK, but better to have started much earlier. Required: good walking boots, sun block, hat, fly net if needed, and absolutely 1.5 litres of water. Each of us carry a 1 litre steel cannister, and a 750 ml collapsible plastic drinking bottle that hooks easily to belt loops or bag straps. Be advised! Benches are few and far between around the path. Even less frequent are the water taps. Only 2 to be precise, both toward the halfway point. All set? Here we go!

The Mala walk tells the story of the Mala ancestors at Uluru. But it includes visits to the caves those ancestors actually used - the boys' cave with the peephole that allowed them to watch the men hunting the last emu leaving the waterhole so that the other emu would come back next time; the men's cave where the faces and eyes could still be seen of the men killed in the attack that drove the Mala south; the women's and girl's  cave where the seed grinding spots are still visible; and the old men's cave where the grandfathers sat around a fire that left the roof blackened with soot. We left the Mala story and started the base walk, intermittently looking up to see where we were along the wall of Uluru, spotting landmarks set for us by Justin the day before, and admiring the flora and fauna along the path. There are signs and dark outlines on the maps to indicate where photos are not allowed - even ao, it can be confusing. I hope we were correct in where our photos were taken. The forbidden areas are sacred and meant to be viewed in situ. In some areas the path veered far enough away that places for  Men's or Women's business, as it is called, was lost from sight. We made our way into another waterhole, impressed with the lack of litter. But we were disappointed to find that many footprints left the barricade at the waterhole itself, regardless of signs explaining the sacred nature of the spot and inviting people to sit and reflect on what they were seeing and feeling. It is a shady rest area, the plunge of rock above it utterly breathtaking. However, some folks seemed compelled to ignore this request and disturb the shores around the water, even leaving their initals carved into the sand. At one of the several large benches, curving branches pieced together artfully by a skilled craftsperson, and to be clear, placed too far apart along the path, we put up tired feet and ate our packed lunches. By the time we made the water stop around the 1/2 way point, our bottles were low - thank you to whoever built that shelter! Having started the walk late morning, we chose to walk clockwise. I believe the stories are told in that direction anyway. And it meant that for the hottest part of the day we were on the far side of Uluru, the path more shaded even when it swung quite far away from the rock wall. The shady spots made the sun drenched spaces more tolerable - something to aim for! August is late winter here. It would be impossible for me in the heat of January. Only the last leg was into the late afternoon sun, and once we could see the silhouette of the climb, we knew we had made it.

A wonderful, unforgettable walk. We drove to the Arts Centre and the 'Toilets' as they are called here. One last quick look around as everything was shutting down - no time to pick and choose yet again. Someday perhaps I will find a piece of art from Uluru that I simply must have. Until then, photos and memories will suffice.

Uluru: 1st Full Day

The next morning our 6:30 wakeup call coincided with the earlier pick up time for Dawn's Awakening. So that was a scramble! Our guide, Justin, circled around through the resort to pick up the rest of his party and came back for us. Whew! Made it! There were  only 8 pasengers in the van and no sign of Sondra and Gordon - they must have been with a different tour. Too bad. We had hoped to see them again. Anyway, out to another dune we went, a bit closer to Uluru, and out of sight of Kata Tjuta. Cold! I was glad I wore so many layers: underwear, undershirt, tee shirt, jacket, serape, jeans, wool socks, boots. The wrap kept my hands warm in between gulps of hot coffee and chocolate, and there were a couple of big heaters going. The chef handed me a bacon and egg GF sandwich in place of the bun for the others. They take care of me here! Dawn crept slowly across the land, gradually revealing the colours in the tree, shrubs, flowers, and grasses that surrounded us. The stars were replaced by that clear blue with the pale moon still hanging low in the sky as the sun broke the horizon and painted Uluru its brillint rosy hue. Justin was a charming fellow, friendly and gregarioius. He talked o the group, of course, for tour purposes. But in between, he happily carried on individual conversations. Justin was particularily good with 12 year-old James who was full of questions and contributions. Before starting our drive around Uluru, we made a stop at the base of the climb near the start of the Mala walk. Justin made it clear that he, like every employee of the territory that we met, supported the Aboriginal request to forbid the climb - the lives lost, the injuries to persons and the rock itself, the damage to the fragile ancient ecology at its sumit, and the pollution of the waterholes at its base from lack of toilet facilities. But primarily because it was an ancient site, sacred to the four aboriginal peoples who share ownership and responsibility for it. The board governing the site has majority Aboriginal representation, and the climb is destined to end in 2020. If the percentage of tourists wanting to do the climb drops fast enough, they will close it sooner. Justin told us the stories he was allowed to tell, in relation to Urulu. He started with the Mala people, and as we drove, pointed out the features on the rockface that went with the story, ending with the Mala being chased to the south where their story continues. He told the story of Kuniya, the python woman, and Liru, the poisonous snake. We got out and walked into the water hole just below the marks of Kuniya's attack and Liru's death. There was the story, too, of the Lizard man, who left the imprint of his skin when he rolled down the rockface - I bought a book of these stories and more at the Cultural Centre. I also watched 2 women painting and very nearly bought one. The centre houses a good museum, documentary theatre, and two galleries, one strictly local. But no time to decide on a painting. Our last stop was on a low dune for refreshments and an iconic photo. That afternoon we rested and spent time at the resort. Dinner at Banya Bar, Desert Gardens Hotel, was relaxing and delicious, Jack Daniels Manhatten and all. I won't say much about Field of Light that evening. An impressive art installation of ever changing coloured lights over many football sized fields of rolling countryside. Beautiful, but walking through it was enough. I can't imagine what they do with the folks who come for dinner.

Uluru: Ayers Rock Resort 1st Night

At the Outback Pioneer Lodge in the resort, our room was simple but comfortable. The resort as a whole consisted of the lodge, a campground, the more upscale Desert Gardens, and the very upscale Sails in the Desert, as well as a Town Square of shops, and a residential area for the permanent staff. Over the 3 nights that we stayed, we enjoyed our dinners at the Banya Bar (excellent light fare and a Manhatten for me) and at Bough House (excellent mains and a dessert buffet, 2 helpings of pannacotta!), plus breakfast buffet at the Bough House was included, varied and generous.

However, the best dinner was the Sounds of Silence, our introduction to Uluru. As part of our 3 night package at the Lodge, we had just checked in when we had to meet the bus that took a small crowd to a red dune. Up we went to the summit, to be greeted by sparkling wine and canapes (a yummy GF plate for me, of mostly Greek bites), which we consumed while watching the sunset on Uluru and Kata Tjuta, taking lots of photos between mouthfuls. The view was phenomenal, colours in the landscape changing by the minute. And a full moon was rising by the time we started back down to a lovely dining area laid out below crest of the dune. We were seated at a table for 10 - Jackie's family to one side, Sondra and Gordon to the other, from England, and 3 people from China, whose names escaped me, across from us. Dinner was served buffet style, with choice of wine, and a chef who happily pointed out to me what I could and could not eat. There were several meats to choose from and I did have a small slice of kangaroo - good tucker! Everything was delicious. While we were eating a man played a didgeridoo, more beautifully than I have ever heard. The wine flowed, everyone beamed with happiness, and the conversation was great. Two men with faces and torsos painted danced traditional pieces using recorded accompaniment of women's singing and percussion. Mysterious and wonderful. While we enjoyed the dessert buffet and port, tea, and coffee, Taylor used a laser pointer to show us the constrellations. She gave us both the ancient Western and Aboriginal mythologies. Two telescopes were set up so we had a look at Saturn and the beautiful full moon.

The Drive to Uluru

It was almost 11 a.m. by the time we set out to drive to Uluru on August 19. June at the Information Centre had booked unlimited miles for us at Thrifty's - it's the only way because the dealers limit is 100 km per day and charge 25 cents and up per extra km! Anyway, we kept the Camry which meant we had to stay on the sealed roads. No time for 4x4 detours anyway :)

After a false start past the airport heading down a country road to Santa Teresa (ack!) we backtracked and found the Stuart Highway south towards Adelaide, which took us as far as Erldunda. There we turned onto the Lassiter Highway heading west to Uluru and the Outback Pioneer Lodge at Ayers Rock Resort. We did stop briefly at a few spots for refreshments or to see birds, and to have a look from the Mt. Connor look out. The CD that described the history and geography of the land as we drove through it was a great help, and most interesting: MacDonnell Ranges, the James Range, Finke River, Mt. Connor, and finally Uluru and Kata Tjutu.

Jumping Ahead to Yellow Waters

This is a test really. I am trying different ways to post photos from JD’s library to my trip posts and blogs. A couple of crocs by the Yellow Waters in Kakadu National Park!

Alice Springs part 2

Beckie and Craig offered us such a comfortable haven with the beautiful view described in my last blog, that we kept it for our entire visit to the red  centre of Australia.  This gave us a home base, a safe space to leave extras on our various tours, and a comfy stopover in the down times between to do laundry, rest up, and regroup, already familiar with the Alice Springs environs. We got to know the downtown area - June at the Information Centre, Steve and Ria at Thrifty's, Andrew who sent us to  Red Dog Cafe for its great coffee and brekky, the Epilogue next door with its gluten free for me and Gavin's open mic on the rooftop Thursday nights.

An aside here: I wanted to sing my Australian love song, Stay Down Here With You and had signed up to sing at 9:15 pm. Well, Gav was running a little behind. By 10:45, the crowd had swelled as the restaurants closed - a big audience, a full of drink happy but noisy crowd. My froggy throat was even worse in the dry desert air, and the more so due to the smokers on the rooftop. So it was a major disaster but I did it anyway, kind of yelling the song through the mic - couldn't hear a thing! Much better when I sang it to our guides from Glen Helen - uh, later.

We got to know the beautiful state of the art public library, surrounded by trees and a sculptured meeting place honouring the first peoples and pioneers of Alice Springs. We ate at Sporties and the Red Ochre Grill - kudos to both. Closer to where we stayed, I would skip Juicy Rump next time. But for our last night in Alice Springs, The Deck at the Hilton served delightful meals and the bar even had Gentleman Jack for me. Coles, Woolworths, and the Pharmacy at the Yeperyenye Centre provided our needs and Dingo equipped us for our forthcomng camping trip through Kakadu.

So...what did we really do in the red centre? in our frst few days in Alice Springs, we visited the Araluen Cultural Centre, a complex that includes a theatre, several galleries, a craft guild, and two museums. One gallery exhibited a collection of larger than life 3-D photo portraits of Aboriginal individuals, each dealing with a particular physical challenge. Fascinating works. Another was filled with the most beautful and exceptional Aboriginal artworks ranging from representational landscapes, exquisite dot paintings, and contemporary sculptural pieces. The crafters shop included a workspace for locals and an exhibit of mostly textile arts like knits and painted silks. The Natural History museum focused on Australian fossils, meteorites, and minerals, as well as the history of first contact and the changing population. It also housed a good Aussie gift shop. We did not visit the air museum. Or school of the air museum? But did walk through the sculpture garden surrounding a 300 year old sacred cork wood tree. The garden borders a sacred hill, Two Women Dreaming, that is fenced to prevent climbing. We ran out of time, but not before JD spotted the first lizard, a long nosed dragon, and the only species of lizard we have seen thus far.

When we arrived at Desert Park in Alice Springs we had missed all the exhibitions. Matt recommended the Nocturnal Walk that night. We can't say enough about this wonderful experience! In fact, it bears repetition. The park keeps small species almost extinct in parts of the wild since the introduction of camels and cattle have disrupted their environments. Even captive breeding and release programs do not work now due to the huge numbers of invasve foxes and feral cats, even where the dingos are still hunted, which might control the fox and cat populations. We wore red head lamps to see the creatures who came to the feeding stations after dark. Our guide along the walk, Damion, was obviously knowledgeable about all the creatures we saw along the two hour walk: malas (tiny kangaroos and one a momma with an eensy joey in her pouch!), echidnas (one took a stroll through our group!), stickneck rats and a nest, long nosed bandicoots and long eared bilbys. The battong and wallaby remained in shadows so we caught just a glimpse. It was splendid.  However, jostling and low light elimnated most photo attempts :) 

I will leave you here and pick up the next blog at our drive to Uluru. In the meantime, have listen to the song of love I wrote on my first visit to this wondrous country. It is available on iTunes and all music platfoms if you search Catherine M Thompson or Celtic Cat. The song is Stay Down Here With You: soundcloud.com/catscupboard/stay-down-here-with-you

Alice Springs part 1

It is difficult to describe the beauty of the red centre. JD took tons of photos, but they never communicate the scale. For instance, the land beyond our Alice Springs rental's backyard sweeps across a long stretch of dried tall grass dotted with trees and up the high ridge of the MacDonell Ranges and into an unbelieveably high cerulean blue sky. There is an old tub outside the yard, filled with water, drawing kangaroos, a dingo (we never did see), and every sort of bird. The galas descend on one of the trees off and on, grey crowned babbler nests crowd another, and a whistling kite lights on the spar of a dead tree to rest just beyond the fence. 

In the evening, after the sun goes down, the ridge is sillouetted with a soft pink glow as the sky darkens. We had a full moon last week, making one night's nocturnal tour of Desert Park less dark, full of shadows, but still starry enough for our guide to point out the southern cross and my constellation, Scorpio. We wore red light head bands and saw malas (tiny kangaroos, one a momma with an even tinier joey in her pouch), banicoots, echidnas (one that took a stroll among the group's feet) wallabies, sticknest rats, and bilbys.

The Aruluen Cultural Centre galleries are full of Aboriginal traditional and contemporary arts, the natural history museum is full of Australian fossils, and which is located at a women's sacred hill, women's dreaming, including a sacred 300 year-old corkwood tree. The range is the origin of caterpillars in Aborginal belief, represented by a contemporary sculptured walkthrough. Hard to describe. But we did see a ring-neck parrot telling his own stories in the corkwood tree, a long-nosed dragon (!) (tiny lizard), and a gigantic grasshopper. 

As for the birds, as mentioned above and so many more, they are spectatcular and everywhere to be seen. So I am in awe and JD is having a field day! 

Long Weekend in Melbourne Part 2

On Sunday, we drove out to JL & E's home on the Mornington peninsula, on the outskirts of Melbourne. We had not seen E since they were living in Whistler, BC, so it was wonderful to be with her, JL, and their boys again. Even more fun was meeting the latest addition, a 15 month old elf boy with strawberry blonde hair and a wicked smile.

After giving the boys their books (In Flanders Fields for the oldest, Roche Carrier's The Hockey Sweater, and Robert Munsch books for the other two) I showed them all pictures of their cousins and our grandchildren on my iPad. We caught up on family, homes, jobs and so on. And enjoyed watching the boys with their grandparents. Then we piled into two cars and went to Sorrento.

From what I could understand, Sorrento is further up the Mornington peninsula out toward the coast. As we came into the town along the waterfront, we saw small colorful buildings side by side along the beach. These windowless structures are privately owned and are used to store umbrellas, buckets and whatever might be needed for a day at the seaside. At first I thought that these were the beach homes that we had come to see. But that was far from correct.

We drove through town and out to a park, then continued on foot - three boys, one toddler in a stroller, parents, grandparents, and us - the aunt and uncle - until we came to a dirt road that headed toward the water. At the end was a path that led along the cliff on the public allowance at the edge of lands overlooking the coves and the jetties below. These properties are substantial, to say the least, with beautiful homes and gardens, some with matching boathouses on the docks. It was a challenging walk, up and down and uneven, but worth every step. At the end of it, we came to a path that went down to a sheltered beach where we found seashells and more of the beach huts.

The boys explored every inch, built sand castles, and helped look for shells. Even though we were wearing a few layers against the cool air, the wee one was stripped down and had a bit of a splash at the edge of the water until he did a face plant into the sand. That was the signal that it was time to go back to the cars and find a restaurant. We ate at place with a large dining room, a bar, a generous seniors menu, and a playroom for the kids. It was amazing how easy going the meal was until the little guy took off at full speed around the dining room with me in pursuit. I finally corralled him in the playroom and delivered him back to his Mom and Dad. We said goodnight, goodbye, thanks for the great day, and tired from the long walk and all the fresh air, L, B, J and I headed back to our hotel.

Week One in Canberra

Our first week was easy going, a kind of a low-key-to-lazy vacation at our brother and sister-in-law's home in Canberra. After lunch at her sister's that first day, B went off to walk K's dog with her and then K joined us for dinner. B made a most delicious potato and celery soup that night and a day or so later made pumpkin soup - what we would consider squash soup. We puttered about for a couple of days, looking after household bits and pieces and catching up with one another. The weather is coming on to fall, mostly warm clear days with cold nights. The temperature drops rapidly as the sun sets and it sets early, of course. But it is not freezing the bird bath overnight like it did four years ago. On that last visit we would wake up to see the cockatoos trying to break the ice on their bath. However, the colder nights make running to the bathroom in the middle of the night an attempt to set a land speed record - there is no heat in the loo and the window remains open! Nonetheless, without central heating I tend to sleep more soundly once the space heater has been turned off for the night. How odd to hear that there is a heat wave back home.

We are seeing more than cockatoos of course...galahs, mynas, eastern rosellas, king parrots, rainbow lorikeets, for example. We have also spotted kangaroos, sheep, and cattle. But no luck so far in finding koalas, although we passed through a section on the highway between Canberra and Melbourne where signs were posted indicating koala territory. Our outings in Canberra have primarily been for family shopping. But that has included a number of trips to various groceries and markets. The range of fresh local produce is fantastic, even as the fall approaches winter. B and I did go out to find her a new jacket before they set off to Sydney on Monday for B's cousin's funeral. We did not go with them. S came over and took us to lunch at a cafe. We sat outside and ate Fried Flake & Chips and a Lamb Burger. Delish!

We spent a day with L at the War Memorial, a truly outstanding museum documenting Australia's history of combat from South Africa through to Afganistan. The museum sits atop a long incline rising up from Lake Burley-Griffin across from the Parliament Houses. It is the sort of noble prospect that should be due the great architecture in any major city. It was a privilege to visit the museum with L, a knowledgeable and experienced veteran. I wore my knee braces and took my walking stick but still needed to take a break before the guys were ready to quit. Fortunately, there was a handy cafe offering good coffee and something called a mud cake.

Going to The Glassworks was great fun. I bought a "Scrabbled Egg" cup, blown glass with a glass E scrabble tile on the side of the cup - E for Egg, for my egg collection. The exhibit was delightful and the works were in a fascinting old power plant. We watched a glass blower teach a young student how to gather glass and shape a paperweight. B has signed up for the same session but we will be gone by then. Behind the works is a huge market for produce and crafts which we hope to visit later.

One morning we headed out toward Yass and the Yass Valley to visit L & B's friends on Manton's Creek. T & J were wine merchants for many years but closed their shop when the mall was redeveloped. They have moved out of the city onto 100 acres of land. They are in the process of building their new home on the top of a low hill with an almost 360 degree view of the breathtaking surrounding landscape. We were invited to see the building blocks that comprise the frame of the spacious new house. A team of men had raised half the walls in only a couple of days using these oblong bricks of compressed polystyrene held in place and reinforced with rebar. Once the walls are constucted, a cement truck will come and fill the bricks resulting in a strong concrete wall pre-insulated by the polystyrene shells. Tres cool! It will be a beautiful place once the building is complete.

Between day trips we watched and encouraged while L & B planted their winter garden in several raised beds along the end of their back yard. They have broccoli, peas, onions, garlic, squash, etc. All ready to grow in their winter. Go figure! If we planted broccoli outdoors in November we would end up with green mush after the first deep freeze. Laundry done, linens changed, cat care set up, and we were off to Melbourne. That's our second week here and that is another story.

Holiday in St. Lucia

Here it is the week before Christmas and this blog has been silent since Thanksgiving. I will fill in the details for the past couple of months in a future blog. Today, I had more to write about our holiday in St. Lucia than I could fit in a tweet. After four gloriously sunny days, rain clouds rolled in over Smugglers Cove last night bringing us intermittent downpours throughout this Friday morning. The advantages are two-fold: it encourages us to take it easy after yesterday's exhaustive and exhausting tour of land and sea (more later), and the rain also brought out the land crabs. The tunnels that house these creatures have been intriguing us since our arrival and this morning we finally found them perched at the openings of their houses along the gardens and pathways of the resort. They range in size from 2-4 inches, grayish to bright orange. The slightest movement sends them dashing underground so it took a great deal of stealth to photograph them.

Smugglers Cove Resort and Spa is on the north west end close to Castries, the largest city. It is situated on an estate of 65 acres of well-kept gardens, six pools, and is self-contained within the cove with a sheltered sandy beach including a snorkeling reef. The all-inclusive services offer bars, lounge, band and stage, a large buffet restaurant for all three meals plus three table service restaurants for dinner reservations. The fresh fruits and vegetables are in endless supply. The dinner menus have been very good - my favourite so far being the 10 spice duckling at Cafe Asia. I had anticipated a lot of shellfish, which I love, but surprisingly that is not the case. The fish is barracuda, tilapia, mahi mahi, and other meaty fish. Chicken and pork dominate the menu, and I love the spices used. The water is luxuriously warm and buoyant for swimming even when the breakers are too rough for snorkeling or small boats. The heat and sun assist the sensation of slowly melting into a healing stupor as the day passes: breakfast, walkabout, beachwear before lunch, lounge chair and reading under a tree or umbrella before a swim in the sea, stroll up to the top pool for the swim up bar and a drink by the cascade fountain as the sun declines, shower and dress for dinner, drinks and entertainments, collapse in sleep to prepare for the next taxing day. All in glorious surroundings of flowering plants, palms, and birds. Too sweet.

We have been overwhelmed by the beauty of this little island nation. The flag is blue for sky and sea, I believe, with three triangles overlapping - the smaller for Petit Piton is yellow as the sun, the next largest for Gros Piton is black, and the largest for the tallest peak Morne Gimie is white. These colours represent the St. Lucians themselves. The land is lush with indigenous and imported plants, agriculture largely bananas for export to the UK, industry the production of rum and cocoa. The shore is a convolution of cliffs, bays and coves, perfect of the development of resorts, spas and hotels for the ever increasing tourist industry. We experienced most of this during Thursday's Land and Sea Tout. We hit the highlights in Castries and two fishing villages enroute south to Soufriere. We drove through rainforests as we crossed over mountain passes, stopping at breathtaking outlooks to take photos, buy fresh coconut and souvenirs. We drove into the volcano to survey the smoking sulphurous centre, visited waterfalls, and botanical gardens. When we arrived in the harbor at Soufriere, we boarded a boat which transported us to a secluded beach. A generous and delicious lunch awaited. On to a beach between Pitons where we snorkeled and sunned for awhile. As the sun descended, we boarded again for the final leg of the tour, a boatride back up the coast to Castries. On the way, we stopped at a bat cave, Marigot Bay, and the tunnel of love used in Pirates of the Caribbean. The tour began at 9 am and we arrived back at Smugglers Cove after 7 pm! What a fabulous day.

We had hoped to see a dear friend while here, 95-year-old Betty, our Thanksgiving guest for 10 or 12 years before she moved here permanently four years ago to join her daughter's family. They are a branch of the Devaux family that stretches back to the eighteenths century. We have been privileged to meet and be hosted by Betty's granddaughters. Her daughter Pam gifted us with a book by Robert Devaux OBE, her husband, an island historian. They Called Us Brigands is the saga of the freedom fighters at the end of the 18th century who inhabited the rainforests and mountains in the interior of the island, claiming their emancipation in opposition first to the French Aristocracy and the Royalist planters and later to the British conquerors who sought to reestablish slavery. Very interesting, putting the place names and the creole language into clear context. We also came away with Pam's homemade cookies and a jar of chutney. Thank you, Robert and Pam! Well, that was Tuesday at Gayle and Carlos' lovely home and clinic, where we met granddaughter Tracy as well as a number of great grandchildren and other family and friends. Gayle and Carlos are naturopaths who also produce in house the NatMed line of natural treatments and the Caribbean Blue Naturals cosmetic products. I am looking forward to trying the lovely soaps they gave us. On Saturday, we are invited to cocktail hour at Maran and Richard's where we hope that Betty will be able to join us. If not, I will print out and send the pictures I brought for her on my iPad and be happy with having met most of her wonderful family. Otherwise, this week is one to kick back and relax.

I did a bit of a spa day on Wednesday with a back and foot massage and facial. And tonight we plan a trip into Gros Islet for the Friday night street party that has been ongoing for 21 years or more. It is reputed to be a blast. I will have to work on staying alert long enough to get there. We leave Sunday morning, to arrive back in TO on Christmas Day at about 6 pm. Fortunately, the usual dinner bunch are occupied elsewhere this year. We are ordering in Thai for them on the 27th this time around. We will be at the big family gathering at Mom's on Boxing Day, thankful that we do not have to deal with jet lag after this trip. In the meantime, we wish all of you the best of Seasons Greetings whatever your mid-winter celebrations, and of course, a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.