Glen Helen Tour Day 2

Colin packed the secnd half of my GF egg and bacon sandwich after breakfast, saying that he already had a GF chicken sandwich for my lunch. That was OK! I finished my breakfast sandwich at coffee break. Or should I say, morning tea?

Colin started us at the Mt Sonders lookout, different in the morning light. Then on over hill and dale of alluvial sand and stones where once a huge river or inland sea flowed. I think it was from a high point there - Tyler's Pass, I think - that we could see three of the MacDonnell ranges and across the desert at the end of the alluvial section, at a great distance, the walls of Gosse Bluff as red as the ranges. On we went up Davenport Creek to Roma Gorge - I hope I have that right as I cannot find it on a map. Access on foot was a bit of a challenge, but worth the effort. The narrow waterhole was lined with steep smooth rock, trees, and shrubs. As luck would have it, not only was there a flock of zebra finches, but a large flock of budgerigars. They are notoriously shy. However, as groups of birds took turns perching on a small ledge to drink from the water, we had clear views of both species. The one thing we did not see at any of these sites were rock wallabys. On to Gosse Bluff or Tnorala Impact Crater. A gap in the wall led us to a 5 km wide shaded sandy floor. Colin stopped for lunch at what could have been a camp site. Good grub, again. And wouldn't you know, we were visited by fairie wrens - the Slendid blue one. Didn't he just hop about and pose for JD's camera. Then Colin showed us a bower bird bower. In fact there was another bower, rundown and abandoned, nearby. But no bower birds to be seen. The best part of the Gosse, of course, was climbing the small incline to the boundary toward the centre of the crater bowl. From there we had a 360 degree view of the walls. There were two sets of signs at that point. One explained that the centre of the crater had exploded outward to create a far circular rim now seen only from space. Where we stood was debris that had fallen into the bowl as huge walls had erupted up from 5 km below the earth. I still have no idea what the meteor was like that hit in anicient times. But there are two aboriginal stories here. The first links the crater to a child that fell to earth. Two women, dancing in the milky way, danced so hard they rocked a cradle until the baby fell to earth and created the crater. The morning and evening star are the parents still looking for the child. I hope I am not offending by sharing this story. However, our guide told us so I believe it is okay to share it. The second story has to do with a community of people who used to live in the crater in ancient times. There was a conflict with a neighbouring community, which lead to a massacre, which made that half of the crater bowl a place of sorrow, like a burial ground. So the way was barred and visitors were asked to go no further. No one had lived in the crater since.

The longest ride up a river bed led into Palm Valley. We had heard it was impossible without 4WD. No kidding! As soon as we got to the start of the walk into the valley itself, we began to see palms here and there along the path. Some were called cabbage palms, and some seemed to be just the fronds growing straight out of the ground. The further in we went, the denser the palm growth until it was the majority of the vegetation. At the end of the walk, we came out onto the shore of the river that runs through the valley. Wide flattish rocks, pockmarked by shallow depressions. Many of them were rimmed with a whitish line. Colin explained how the water table would push water up through the rock, collecting minerals as it seeped through into small pools and leaving salt rims as it evaporated. After exploring the terrain of the valley floor, we started the climb up the side of the valley. Huffing and puffing and sweating gallons, I did it. On the way up we met a group of 8 or 9 aboriginal schoolboys in uniform practically running down the path. Weirdly, we may have met the same two teachers who were with them when we were in Kakadu. More on that later. From the top of the valley wall, we looked across the river bed at the length of the palm stand. Colin pointed out the large gap in height caused by the over-pasturing of the station that encompassed the valley. Cattle are no longer allowed into the valley and the palm growth patterns have recovered. The decent into Palm Valley was far easier. Colin had to push us a bit, having lingered too long birdwatching and discussing varioius sights.

What that meant in the long run, is that on our return to Alice Springs, eary enough for Colin to commute back to Glen Helen, we had to give Hermannsburg a skip. It is an important historic precinct. Everyone asked if we had gone to Hermannsburg. We drove by it. Enough at the end of two splendid days, thanks to Roger and Colin and the staff at Glen Helen Homestead. If you go to Alice Springs, give them a call. It's an experience you do not want to miss.

Sunset at Kata Tjuta

With our last full day at Uluru waning, we drove to Kata Tjuta to watch the sunset. The viewing station is between the western horizon and the domes of this complex geological site. Its name means 'many heads' and it is still so sacred that there is little talked of it. However, if we ever come again, we will spend several more days to walk into the Valley of the Winds and other parts of it. At the end of our long walk at Uluru, we were content to stand with the other pilgrims, backs to the sun, watching the changing colours and shadows on the domes and in the sky around them. We had a number of pleasant conversations with other watchers. Then we drove back to the resort in time to  make a reservation for dinner at the Bough House, where we enjoyed a leisurely meal and a double helping of GF panna cotta for dessert!

Jumping Ahead to Yellow Waters

This is a test really. I am trying different ways to post photos from JD’s library to my trip posts and blogs. A couple of crocs by the Yellow Waters in Kakadu National Park!

Alice Springs part 1

It is difficult to describe the beauty of the red centre. JD took tons of photos, but they never communicate the scale. For instance, the land beyond our Alice Springs rental's backyard sweeps across a long stretch of dried tall grass dotted with trees and up the high ridge of the MacDonell Ranges and into an unbelieveably high cerulean blue sky. There is an old tub outside the yard, filled with water, drawing kangaroos, a dingo (we never did see), and every sort of bird. The galas descend on one of the trees off and on, grey crowned babbler nests crowd another, and a whistling kite lights on the spar of a dead tree to rest just beyond the fence. 

In the evening, after the sun goes down, the ridge is sillouetted with a soft pink glow as the sky darkens. We had a full moon last week, making one night's nocturnal tour of Desert Park less dark, full of shadows, but still starry enough for our guide to point out the southern cross and my constellation, Scorpio. We wore red light head bands and saw malas (tiny kangaroos, one a momma with an even tinier joey in her pouch), banicoots, echidnas (one that took a stroll among the group's feet) wallabies, sticknest rats, and bilbys.

The Aruluen Cultural Centre galleries are full of Aboriginal traditional and contemporary arts, the natural history museum is full of Australian fossils, and which is located at a women's sacred hill, women's dreaming, including a sacred 300 year-old corkwood tree. The range is the origin of caterpillars in Aborginal belief, represented by a contemporary sculptured walkthrough. Hard to describe. But we did see a ring-neck parrot telling his own stories in the corkwood tree, a long-nosed dragon (!) (tiny lizard), and a gigantic grasshopper. 

As for the birds, as mentioned above and so many more, they are spectatcular and everywhere to be seen. So I am in awe and JD is having a field day! 

Headed for France via Jacksonville

The trip down to Jacksonville, FL, went really well. I picked up a fruit and cheese box at Toronto-Pearson, asked to pre-board, the agent told me to sit in 6A instead of 5A  because there was no one in 6B, so I had the section to myself all the way to Detroit and could munch away as the clock tilted toward noon. It was a small connector plane with one stewardess and no food service. Glad I bought my lunch first. 

However, at the Detroit airport I asked the gate agents for directions to my connecting gate as I had less than an hour to get there. They were very helpful with the long walking directions but neglected to mention that there was an express tram running around the mezzanine that would have saved me a 20 minute sprint in killer heat. I even said, "Wow, that is a long way. I better put my knee braces on." Which I did, right in front of them. I realized I could have taken the tram when I was too close to the second gate to bother. 

But JAX is a bright cheerful airport, full of helpful people, and even a piano man in the main foyer that I tipped on my way by. What a welcome! Also I got to the hotel by free shuttle and in short order. It is on a service road with not much of anything around. It is hot outside but there is a stiff dry breeze blowing so it is far more comfortable here than at home right now. And, wonders of wonders, both the AC & good wifi are working in my room. The AC is working a little too well actually, so as I wrote this I was sitting outside. And the wifi worked out there too. Seems like a good omen. 

The shuttle will get me to the airport in minutes so I could have slept until 8 this morning. But I am up earlier, taking my time to repack for the overnight flight today to Frankfort and on to France. I will wear my comfy jeans and take a jacket. Well, there is a little coffee bar here so I am going to get ready and have a bit of breakfast before I go to the airport to meet the other 25 women in the group. Wahoo!

I will touch base every day or so, depending on the wifi situation. And I will finish the Australia blogs - so that may be a bit confusing. I was in Australia late May to early June. I will be in France late June to early July. Also, sadly, since Blogspot will now only load photos via Picassa and Picassa refuses to browse photos on my iPad photo library, I cannot post photos with these bogs unless I am on a real computer.