Way Outback Camping in Kakadu Day 3

The previous evening, Kim had told us that the walk into Jimjim Falls would be the hardest yet, over boulders to a slippery rock entrance into the waterhole. She also said that Twin Falls was not running at all, so the group would not be going there. Well, I had no intention of getting halfway to Jimjim and having to turn back to wait in the heat by the van. No. By morning JD decided to join me in skipping the trip to Jimjim Falls. We were not alone! It turned out that several others had made the same decision - about half of the whole group is my guess. JD and I were dismayed to find the rare rude helper at the reception desk of Kakadu Lodge was a young Canadian woman. She was less than helpful in giving us directions to the Bowali Cultural Centre. Sure enough, following her directions, we walked along the highway and made a wrong turn. We walked a long way down a dirt road until we hit a deadend. Sigh. We turned around and headed back.

The Crocodile Hotel was a short way further up the road. Dripping with sweat and desparate for shade, we headed for the mouth-like entry. What a relief. We walked into a fabulous gallery of Aboriginal art. Furthermore, we were able to watch a painter working on a new brolga painting. With a little help from the receptionist, and a better map, we found our way to the Bowali Cultural Centre. It was midday at this point, making for a very hot, shade to shade, far too long, walk through the bush to the centre. On our way, we met some of the other campers on their return. There it was at last and well-worth the trek. A coffee shop, documentary film room, museum, and a shop/gallery. I didn't buy anything. But Katie in the shop/gallery explained the mimis to me. She also recommended that we talk to Dave at Oenpilli re our old bark paintings. We watched a doc about croc control, went to the museum, had a cup of coffee, and walked back to the Crocodile Hotel. There we detoured to a bakery where we saw two uniformed gents in an SUV.

We bought a bit of lunch and cold drinks. I asked one of the men if he would be driving past Kakadu Lodge. Both men gallantly offered us a ride to our gate, which was in fact only a short way down the road. No matter! We really appreciated the lift. Anyway, it turned out that they were teachers who take Aboriginal students on field trips. Perhaps we met them in Palm Valley on our Glen Helen tour!?

Thankful to get back to camp, we put on our bathing suits and spent the rest of the afternoon at the pool with others who skipped Jimjim. Eventually, the folks who did go joined us along with Kim, until she called us for dinner. As we lingered at the table, Kim told us that the 4-day group would go to Arnhemland with another guide on Day 4 while she and the 5-day group would leave for Katherine at dawn. This news was kind of upsetting and unexpected - we thought we would separate after the day at Injalak. So, it was back to the bar and pool for the final camp night and goodbyes to many. By the end of the evening, M and A had set up a fb page for our group and as a way to keep in touch.

Way Outback Camping in Kakadu Day 2

As soon as we finished breakfast Kim drove us to the Yellow Waters Cruise. This was on a billabong which is part of the Jimjim waterways. It becomes a huge floodplain in the wet season. Even at the end of the dry, looking from the dock, the water stretched off in all directions around and through thick vegetation. In the distance we could see a field where a small herd on brumbies (wild horses) grazed. As luck would have it, and such luck remained with us throughout our stay in Australia, the guide on the cruise boat was absolutely fantastic. When he caught on to the fact that several in our party were interested, he made sure to point out birds as well as crocodiles along the way. Female crocs kept a territory of 20-30 metres along the banks. So we saw lots of them. The big 4.8 metre male cruised along beside us at times. Funnily, he ducked underwater in distain for the advances of one female. The birds, too numerous to name them all, kept us busy looking here and there. A comb-crested jacana walked on thin stilt legs over the huge lotus leaves. A brilliant tiny azure kingfisher posed for photos. And our barge glided up to the bank so we could see the perfect little basket that was a willy wagtail nest. Somewhere during the cruise, a lone water buffalo stood in the brush close to the water, never quite revealing his entire enormous self. The canopy above the seats on the deck cut the direct sun, making it comfortable. We stayed out on the water for the entire morning.

We had lunch back at camp Cooinda then quickly packed and cleaned the tents and cookhouse. It was another long drive to Kakadu Lodge at Jabiru. Along the way, we took in Nourlangie, a good walk and climb that gave us some idea of the way Aboriginal people lived in this place over the centuries. Kim was pretty well-versed in the lore. At the start of the walk was a sign featuring six photos. But 3 had been removed. That followed the tradition of removing the name and image of someone after death, the length of time depending on the customs of the particular community. Hoever, one gentleman, Big Bill Niedjie, instrumental in the development of Kakadu National Park, and its recognition as a heritage site, held his wake before he died. He told his people he would find hs way back to country in three days. Bill declared that they could restore his image and use his name then. He wanted Kakadu and its stories shared with visitors. We visited several caves and rock art galleries. Kim told the stories very well.

It was hot! By the time we made our way to Kakadu Lodge, we were ready for a break. This campground was crowded and at the edge of the grounds, with the wash house quite a walk away. But in the centre stood a bar and pool, encircled with a hedge, lawn, tables and chairs. We quickly organized the tents and headed for the pool for a refreshing swim.

The walk and climb up Ubirr was even more spectacular than Nourlangie. The aim was to watch the sunset from Ubirr but there were a number of rock art galleries along the path to the summit. As we left the main gallery we found an observer above us - a small grey walleroo. Beautiful thing! With a bit of effort, we came up onto a plateau, a flat open space cut with a few rock walls. The final height, which promised a 365 degree view loomed above us. And a lot of people were heading up, including families with small children. However, a bunch of us skipped the final climb, settled onto a low wall with our cameras, and the sunset was beautiful anyway!

Once the sun was down, we quickly descended in the twilight, the afterglow. It was quite dark by the time the stragglers made it back to the van. Kim whipped up another terrific meal and we all tucked in. After dinner, the evening was quieter than the previous one. The wash house was busy with showers after the heat of the day, and the two climbs. It was early to bed that night.

Way Outback Camping in Kakadu Day 1 p.m.

Kim made up for breakfast by taking us to lunch at the mango place. I don't remember its name, unfortunately - Kim told us we could get the best mango smoothie in the world there, and she wasn't kidding. We rode through mango orchards to get there. They are one of the few harvests that thrive in that part of the country. I added a bag of dried mango slices to my stash of snacks. This was the one lunch we had to buy - the food and coffee was excellent!

Lunch finished, we set off on the long drive into Kakadu National Park, much of it over dirt roads. We began to see more and more termite mounds among the trees and in open fields. We stopped at a viewing boardwalk which encircled a huge cathedral mound (yellow) on one side of the site, and a field of magnetic mounds (grey) on the other. The cathedrals, as you might expect, are like tall rounded towers piled one upon the other, deep and wide and high. The magnetic, on the other hand, are wide shallow peaks so thin in the top half you would think they would break in a stiff breeze - more a wall than a mound. Appoarently, scientists tried turning them off their north-south axis and found the internal temperature changed immediately.

Warned that it was our last chance if we wanted to enjoy a drink by the fire that night, we stopped at a roadhouse to buy snacks and booze - a 4-pack of Jack and Dry (gingerale) for me. At last we arrived at Cooinda campground in Kakadu. I think we crossed the South Alligator River to get there - a notorious crossing where many people stuck in high water have had to be dragged out of car windows to safety by one of the tour boat operators. Lots of crocodiles! All branches of the Alligator river are tidal and the crossing was dry when we drove over it. What crocs there were kept their distance. At last we reached Cooinda Campground in time to select tents and make our beds - no swags under the stars. It was already too hot and humid for such heavy sleeping bags. Once our tent was ready, I set out to gather a bit more firewood and made the mistake of picking up a small log infested with green ants. Man, do they bite when disturbed! I tossed that stik away and added my meager bits and pieces to the pile. Kim made dinner quickly and I had a big plate of roasted veggies, avoiding the beef and veggie substitute on offer. JD and some of the others discovered that they could find small wolf spiders on the path by making their eyes gleam with flashlights. The campfire roared under the stars and I helped one of the women toast mashmallows - she did not like the burnt sugar result, funnily enough. I wonder what she had expected!

The night was stifling, so underwear was enough. But sometime in the night, I pulled the sleeping bag up over myself and slept under it until the sun crept into the tent.

Way Outback Camping Aug 29 to Sept 1 - Day 1 a.m.

We booked this tour with Viator but it was a Way Outback Australian Safari tour. So, stumped by GF and the fact that I also cannot eat beef, Viator had me call Way Outback directly. The woman I spoke with there was very kind but could not quite get the no beef thing. Perhaps it was my Canadian accent because I also said that I needed GF or wheat-free food. I told her I could eat around any beef that was served. She told me to bring the GF items with me. But it turned out that Way Outback loaded our guide, Kim, with GF Weetbix, pasta, and vegetarian meat substitutes as I was down as GF and strict vegetarian. Good thing there were other vegetarians and folks willing to eat the veggie sausages and burgers, cause they had wheat in 'em! Anyway, with my GF bread, snack bars, and banana chips to go with everything I could eat that Kim served, I was absolutely well fed all four days.

We threw our duffles in the trailer, and climbed on board with our backpacks and water bottles, to greet our fellow campers. By the time everyone was collected, the little bus was full - Kim plus 17 passengers. It looked like an interesting mix of ages and genders, couples and singles, and a number of nationalities. Let's go!

Our first morning was a trip into Litchfield National Park, almost directly south of Darwin. We made two stops there.
I joined in for a lovely swim at the first gorge, which I think was Florence Falls. The waterhole was wide and quickly deep with a sandbar just far enough out for my skill and stamina. The trick was getting in as the last step down into the water was too much of a reach. The rail made a handy place to hold while I lowered my butt into the water and then pushed off onto my back. Easy-peasy, especially since the water was not cold at all. We were all but dry by the time we got back to the bus. However, at the second gorge I just waked to the lookout to see the beautiful Wangi Falls. It was a long way down and up and Kim warned of slippery rocks at the water. So I stayed at the top, got changed and waited in a shady spot until everyone returned to the bus. Perfectly happy to skip the short swim there.

Kim made up for my breakfast circus by stopping for lunch at the mango place. I can't remember the name of the place - Kim told us we could get the best mango smoothie in the world there, and she wasn't kidding. She drove through mango orchards to get there. They are produce that thrives in that part of the country. I added a bag of dried mango slices to my stash of snacks. For this one lunch we had to buy ourselves, the food and coffee was excellent!

Darwin Aug 27-29 2016

We flew north to Darwin from Alice Springs to have a full day to regroup and pack for a four day camping trip through Kakadu National Park. I did not know what to expect after small town Alice Springs, so I was pleasantly surprised by the sophistication of Darwin. However, its humidity matched its high temperature, which made getting around on foot a bit daunting. Good practice, it turned out, for the heat, humidity and walking on the camping trip. We stayed at Darwin Central Hotel, which we commend for its service and simple comfort. It is situated close to the foot of the street mall, where I finally found full-length light-weight trousers. We also picked up our last few supplies. At the end of the mall, we found the Tourist Information building and bus depot. Walking on, we came to an elevated walkway over the road to a building the faced the waterfront. Taking that route and an elevator down to a tree-shaded green, we camw to a long row of restaurants featuring different types of foods. It is not often that I find GF pizza palatable. Il Lido had great choices. We shared two of them, enough for a light dinner at the end of a long day, and drinks too, at our leisure. We watched swimmers in a closed-in cove, safe from sharks and crocodiles. Then, a large bat landed in the tree beside our table. Some little kids ran over to check it out. What an odd creature, climbing around, upside down, from one tasty cluster to the next.

August 28 began with a splendid breakfast at Eco. We walked around the shops and mall again, including a visit to the Information Centre. They confirmed that car rentals with unlimited mileage, as in Alice Springs, must be booked through them - good to know. The afternoon was spent at Darwin Central resting, doing laundry, and packing our small duffles and backpacks for Kakadu. That done, we caught the bus to Mindil Markets at Mindil Beach. A vast marketplace! There wasn't any chance we'd see it all. But our search for B's recommended paw paw salad was a success. We took our dinner over the dune to the beach where a crowd had gathered to watch the sunset. Glorious! With dinner over and the sun down, we strolled through the market again, watching the buskers and eating ice cream. Suddenly I became aware of the sky purple in the afterglow. Back to the beach we went to see the entire spectacle and take a few photos. But soon it was time to catch the last bus. We had an early morning coming.

August 29 breakfast was a comedy of errors. Way Outback Australian Safaris had confirmed pick up time for 6:30 a.m. Hotel signage said the restaurant opened at 6:30 so full breakfast was impossible. We could make tea in our hotel room, but I wanted a bite before we left. "Aha," thought I, "Room service!" When I was filling in the tag for our door, I saw an offer of a breakfast box we could share. Juice for JD, fruit for me (I imagined an apple), a muffin, cereal, milk. I wrote a note: "GF muffin or cereal if possible, please." And ordered for 5:30-6:00 a.m. We were up on time and got ready to go. No brekky box at our door. We were in the foyer by 6:30. No pickup van. But the desk had the box for us! OJ for JD - for later. An orange - pooh. I can't eat citrus. No muffin. A little bowl of rice krispies. Were they GF? Is that why I got them? A box of milk that the desk managed to cut open for me. One bite. GF? Did I want to be trapped in a van for hours with the consequences if it wasn't? Nope! I put the bowl on the front desk. Sigh. I dug one of the GF snack bars out of my luggage. We wondered when on earth Way Outback would arrive. A women came into the foyer. She was Denise, another camper. She had come down from the restaurant, which had opened at 6:00! Sigh, again. Our guide Kim finally arrived to pick us up. More a 4WD bus than a van, with a trailer for the bags. She had to deal with a flat tire before setting out. Better late than never. We are off!

Final Day in Alice Springs

August 26 was our last full day in Alice Springs. The internet was down and we were without a car. Fortunately, as we were leaving for the day intending to walk or bus downtown, we met the permanent tenant. She had been away in Adelaide. Cathy works at the town hospital and she gave us a ride to Todd Mall. We ran few errands to complete our camping supplies. Then we walked down and across the dry Todd River to Olive Pink Botanic Gardens. I was curious about the name - it is named after a woman, Miss Olive Muriel Pink! Well, the garden is interesting, but Colin had been so knowledgeable about vegetation as well as birds, as had Justin been in Uluru, that we didn't think we would see much of anything new. No. Only a pair of western bower birds courting in his bower, with the male dancing and flaring the pink ruff on the back of his neck! We took photos and watched the pair for a long time. The cafe was closed of course (if I have any complaint about this entire country it is the habit of early closing, like at 3 or 4 if not 5, everywhere!) So there was nothing for it but to follow the road that ran along the Todd River back to our neighbourhood. Along the way, we came to the Hilton, and decided on dinner at the Deck there. As in so many places, and even though this was a little more high end than most places where we dined, we ordered at the bar and paid upfront, were given a number, and the food was delivered to the table. No worries at the Deck. Our meals were delicious! It was an easy walk to our place from there, to pack for the flight to Darwin.

I have to say it again, in case I didn't say it before: Becky and Craig were great hosts. He drove us to the airport on August 27. It had been fun to meet Becky's friend, Colleen, and Craig's son, Kieran. And I am glad we met Cathy, who keeps the water tub full behind the property, for the birds, the roos, and the invisible dingo. Oh, I almost forgot - besides the mother and half-grown joey that we spotted a few times behind the place, we saw a similar pair bounding about Olive Pink as we were leaving. They are called Euros, at least that's what I thought. They are a soft blond tan colour. But in the Olive Pink brochure one is identified as a Black-footed Rock Wallaby...hmmm. So, goodbye to Alice Springs! It has been a wonderful base for our red centre adventure.

Glen Helen Tour Day 2

Colin packed the secnd half of my GF egg and bacon sandwich after breakfast, saying that he already had a GF chicken sandwich for my lunch. That was OK! I finished my breakfast sandwich at coffee break. Or should I say, morning tea?

Colin started us at the Mt Sonders lookout, different in the morning light. Then on over hill and dale of alluvial sand and stones where once a huge river or inland sea flowed. I think it was from a high point there - Tyler's Pass, I think - that we could see three of the MacDonnell ranges and across the desert at the end of the alluvial section, at a great distance, the walls of Gosse Bluff as red as the ranges. On we went up Davenport Creek to Roma Gorge - I hope I have that right as I cannot find it on a map. Access on foot was a bit of a challenge, but worth the effort. The narrow waterhole was lined with steep smooth rock, trees, and shrubs. As luck would have it, not only was there a flock of zebra finches, but a large flock of budgerigars. They are notoriously shy. However, as groups of birds took turns perching on a small ledge to drink from the water, we had clear views of both species. The one thing we did not see at any of these sites were rock wallabys. On to Gosse Bluff or Tnorala Impact Crater. A gap in the wall led us to a 5 km wide shaded sandy floor. Colin stopped for lunch at what could have been a camp site. Good grub, again. And wouldn't you know, we were visited by fairie wrens - the Slendid blue one. Didn't he just hop about and pose for JD's camera. Then Colin showed us a bower bird bower. In fact there was another bower, rundown and abandoned, nearby. But no bower birds to be seen. The best part of the Gosse, of course, was climbing the small incline to the boundary toward the centre of the crater bowl. From there we had a 360 degree view of the walls. There were two sets of signs at that point. One explained that the centre of the crater had exploded outward to create a far circular rim now seen only from space. Where we stood was debris that had fallen into the bowl as huge walls had erupted up from 5 km below the earth. I still have no idea what the meteor was like that hit in anicient times. But there are two aboriginal stories here. The first links the crater to a child that fell to earth. Two women, dancing in the milky way, danced so hard they rocked a cradle until the baby fell to earth and created the crater. The morning and evening star are the parents still looking for the child. I hope I am not offending by sharing this story. However, our guide told us so I believe it is okay to share it. The second story has to do with a community of people who used to live in the crater in ancient times. There was a conflict with a neighbouring community, which lead to a massacre, which made that half of the crater bowl a place of sorrow, like a burial ground. So the way was barred and visitors were asked to go no further. No one had lived in the crater since.

The longest ride up a river bed led into Palm Valley. We had heard it was impossible without 4WD. No kidding! As soon as we got to the start of the walk into the valley itself, we began to see palms here and there along the path. Some were called cabbage palms, and some seemed to be just the fronds growing straight out of the ground. The further in we went, the denser the palm growth until it was the majority of the vegetation. At the end of the walk, we came out onto the shore of the river that runs through the valley. Wide flattish rocks, pockmarked by shallow depressions. Many of them were rimmed with a whitish line. Colin explained how the water table would push water up through the rock, collecting minerals as it seeped through into small pools and leaving salt rims as it evaporated. After exploring the terrain of the valley floor, we started the climb up the side of the valley. Huffing and puffing and sweating gallons, I did it. On the way up we met a group of 8 or 9 aboriginal schoolboys in uniform practically running down the path. Weirdly, we may have met the same two teachers who were with them when we were in Kakadu. More on that later. From the top of the valley wall, we looked across the river bed at the length of the palm stand. Colin pointed out the large gap in height caused by the over-pasturing of the station that encompassed the valley. Cattle are no longer allowed into the valley and the palm growth patterns have recovered. The decent into Palm Valley was far easier. Colin had to push us a bit, having lingered too long birdwatching and discussing varioius sights.

What that meant in the long run, is that on our return to Alice Springs, eary enough for Colin to commute back to Glen Helen, we had to give Hermannsburg a skip. It is an important historic precinct. Everyone asked if we had gone to Hermannsburg. We drove by it. Enough at the end of two splendid days, thanks to Roger and Colin and the staff at Glen Helen Homestead. If you go to Alice Springs, give them a call. It's an experience you do not want to miss.

Glen Helen 2-day Tour August 24 & 25, 2016

Thanks to the recommendation of one of L & B's friends, we booked a 2-day tour by Glen Helen Homestead Lodge. In turn, we highly recommend it. www.glenhelen.com.au (I will come back to these blogs in a few weeks time, when I have other online links at hand and can post them.) After Uluru, this tour was the next big highlight of our trip. It was a personalized tour with an experienced guide willing to cater a bit to our interests while hitting many beautiful spots in the West MacDonnell Ranges that it was a little hard to keep track of of them all after the fact. Book the tour directly with Sheila, who runs Glen Helen Homestead along with her husband Colin, one of the guides. It includes meals and overnight at the Lodge.

On Day 1 our guide Roger picked us up at our accommodations in Alice Springs. We threw our little duffle bags into the back of the 4WD and away we went. Now I might not get all of these spots in order. I'd need a map for that. I may leave some out. But this is what I remember. First stop was Flynn's Grave, just past Desert Park on Larapinta Drive. Flynn was the founder of the Flying Doctors, a much respected and honoured man. His grave is marked with a huge boulder, a replacement for the first one that had been a sacred stone mistakenly taken from a place of women's business. This replacement was given by the local Arrernte community. On to Simpsons Gap, so called as it is a divide in the range. Then to Standley Chasm, which is a place where the water in flood has dug a pit where it is forced between the rocks. Beautiful! Ellery Creek Bighole was similar, but it is a permanent waterhole, even in the dry season and we saw it at the end of the dry. Each of these places has its own spectacular upclose view of the red walls and tumbles of rock that make up the Ranges. There were birds at some, and Roger was patient to wait while JD snapped a few photos. Roger assured us that on Day 2 there would be more birds to see. At some point along a river bed, possibly the Serpentine Gorge, we stopped for morning coffee. The legs of the folding chairs sank into the sand. No GF muffins, but nuts and terrific banana chips, an apple and fresh coffee. Alright! At the end of the morning, nothing had prepared us for the sight of the Ochre Pits. Here the Rainbow Serpent came alive and the notion that the ochre is sacred made perfect sense. Since ancient times, aboriginal peoples travelled to the pits to dig and trade the ochre in all its forms - red, yellow, white, and rare purple. The layers formed eons ago erupted into sharp angles and almost vertical stripes. The walk took us through a shallow canyon with an ever changing vista. Signs asked that we not dig or remove any of the ochre in respect for the owners and caretakers of that country. Of course, we came across one couple who had scraped a small heart and their initials into a saucer sized piece on the ground. All for the sake of a selfie. Romantic? Good grief. Thank goodness most folks show the respect requested or the entire site would be spoiled. Everything else that we saw was pristine and all of it was beautiful.

At Glen Helen Homestead we stopped for lunch and had our first look at the place. Roger gave us the historical background and a chance to look through the rooms and at the art. We checked into our Lodge room with ensuite. Very simple and comfortable. GF bread for my toastie! Good tea. The homestead is situated right at Glen Helen Gorge. There was still some water. However, it was shallow enough that we were able to cross at a narrow spot using stepping stones. When we reached the water hole, it was easy to imagine swimming there at the end of a long hot workday.

After our lunch break, Roger drove on to Ormiston Gorge, his personal favourite, and it was easy to see why. The path was above the river bed, less arduous than some. At the waterhole, the riverbed was wide, the rocks flat and smooth. The far side was a sizable beach, that a few people were walking. I chose to sit on a rock and write postcards while JD and Roger climbed to the lookout over the gorge. It was shady and calm by the water. A good place. When the guys got back, Roger took a long drive up a dry river bed to Redbank Gorge where there was water - a known camping spot for 4WDs. We walked along the shore. More birds. We ended the day with a drive up above that spot to a lookout to Mt Sonder, which tells the story of the sleeping pregnant woman. Her head, breasts, belly, and legs were visible in its peaks. Roger, who runs the bar at the homestead, surprised us with a cold beer for JD and a generous shot of Jack Daniels for me. Laughter all around as we watched the sun go down.

For dinner at Glen Helen Homested, we opted for mains and desserts from the tour menu - award winning food and leisurely service gave us the time to think and chat about the day. I can't honestly remember what we ordered, we were that tired, but it was terrific. After a nightcap in the bar, we settled in for a good sleep.

Desert Park Day Pass in Alice Springs

On Tuesday, August 23, we had the car until 5 pm. What local excursion could we fit in that would best make use of the car? As we were considering the Telegraph Station or east McDonells as far as Ross River, we realized that our day passes for Desert Park were running out. So we finished the laundry and spent the afternoon at the Park. We arrived at the Nocturnal House in time to pick up a guided talk - more information and a closer look in the dim light at some of the critters we had seen on the night walk. But the best bits were the snakes and lizards that we were not to see otherwise. Brown snake is a misnomer - it is a member of the black snack familly and comes in many shades. They are all called Mulga snakes. Never mistake a snake for a legless lizard - that could be a deadly. Do not stop to check. Just slowly and carefully move off in the other direction! The last stop was the thorny devil window - an odd lizard with plates armoured by sharp points, all the valleys providing channels for water droplets to flow into its mouth. Its legs are all akimbo, making any movement look animatronic :) Anyway, JD took the long loop and saw kangaroos, emus, and lots of birds. I went to the bush medicine talk - really neat! - and the dingo demonstration. The ranger, Matt, filled us in on the pair: pure dingo, brother and sister, ambassadors for dingos, fixed against breeeding. He told us how the banning and culling of dingos increased the proliferation of feral cats and foxes that wiped out whole populations of small nocturnal creatures. And one of the greatest threats to the dingo is the viable interbreeding with feral dogs. Meanwhile the keeper walked from place to place tossing bits of food to keep the dingos moving, jumping, catching and climbing to display their lithe lean physiques. Very interesting! JD and I met up at the bird exhibit which is always fun. In the open amphitheatre the keeper asked everyone to remain seated with their arms down as the rapters were to fly low over the crowd. What clever birds! The magpie started the show, followed by a curlew who strutted among the bleachers, a barn owl that appeared out of the top of a tall stump, and a burble owl that was impossibly cute. Then came the swift flying hobby, a beautiful sleek bird, blue grey above and russet below, zipping around to take the bait. The final pair were a whistling and a black kite. A terrific show. They used to have a wedge-tailed eagle, but rumour has it that it tried to land on the pulled up hoodie of a 12 year-old boy. So no more eagle! Desert Park remains top of my list for Alice Springs. Don't miss it.

Return drive from Uluru to Alice Springs

After a terrifc breakfast buffet at the Bough House, we checked out and headed back to Alice Springs. We stopped at the roadhouses we had missed on the way down. To be honest, they are all a bit of a blur at this point. All fully serviceable but none that stands out for a recommendation. There is one place with a sort of bird santuary or zoo, that we checked out for birds we might not see otherwise. We stopped again at the Mt. Connor lookout, beautiful as before, but more to see if any of the great salt lake was visible from that place. It is not. At the Finke River crossing we pulled in and wallked down to the river bed, delighted to find some water still there at the end of the dry season. It was not flowing, but enough to have a few fish traps still set up. We had the place to ourselves until a busload of tourists arrived just as we were leaving. To refresh our understanding of the country we were driving through, we replayed the CD of the trip From Alice Springs to Uluru, running the tracks 9, 8, 7... Especially the bits we had missed on the way down. Hearing that the meteor craters were accessible by regular vehicle, we turned off to see them. However, a "4WD vehicle recommended" sign stopped us in our tracks and we turned back. The Camry rental agreement said sealed roads only. Besides, we did not want to get mired somewhere out in the middle of the back of beyond! We arrived in Alice Springs tired and happy, ready to have dinner and turn in. We parked at Todd Mall (a street mall) and ate at Sporties that night, I believe. We followed three great big guys down the mall, listening to them talking sports all the way. We expected a dark bar filled with TV Sports screens everywhere. Surprise! Sporties is a bright blue, white, and silver diner, with a full bar, large menu, and friendly service. A perfect way to end the day!

Sunset at Kata Tjuta

With our last full day at Uluru waning, we drove to Kata Tjuta to watch the sunset. The viewing station is between the western horizon and the domes of this complex geological site. Its name means 'many heads' and it is still so sacred that there is little talked of it. However, if we ever come again, we will spend several more days to walk into the Valley of the Winds and other parts of it. At the end of our long walk at Uluru, we were content to stand with the other pilgrims, backs to the sun, watching the changing colours and shadows on the domes and in the sky around them. We had a number of pleasant conversations with other watchers. Then we drove back to the resort in time to  make a reservation for dinner at the Bough House, where we enjoyed a leisurely meal and a double helping of GF panna cotta for dessert!

Uluru: 2nd Day Base Walk

We saved the Mala Walk and the Base Walk for our final day at Uluru. From parking at the base of the climb to the return point, the Mala Walk must add a full km to the 11+kms of the base walk. I was determined to complete the walk. This was my bucket list item - of all of our Australian trip outings, the most important one to me. No one should attempt this feat without being fully prepared. Because of the cold mornings at this time of year, we took our time and did not begin until close to 11 a.m. OK, but better to have started much earlier. Required: good walking boots, sun block, hat, fly net if needed, and absolutely 1.5 litres of water. Each of us carry a 1 litre steel cannister, and a 750 ml collapsible plastic drinking bottle that hooks easily to belt loops or bag straps. Be advised! Benches are few and far between around the path. Even less frequent are the water taps. Only 2 to be precise, both toward the halfway point. All set? Here we go!

The Mala walk tells the story of the Mala ancestors at Uluru. But it includes visits to the caves those ancestors actually used - the boys' cave with the peephole that allowed them to watch the men hunting the last emu leaving the waterhole so that the other emu would come back next time; the men's cave where the faces and eyes could still be seen of the men killed in the attack that drove the Mala south; the women's and girl's  cave where the seed grinding spots are still visible; and the old men's cave where the grandfathers sat around a fire that left the roof blackened with soot. We left the Mala story and started the base walk, intermittently looking up to see where we were along the wall of Uluru, spotting landmarks set for us by Justin the day before, and admiring the flora and fauna along the path. There are signs and dark outlines on the maps to indicate where photos are not allowed - even ao, it can be confusing. I hope we were correct in where our photos were taken. The forbidden areas are sacred and meant to be viewed in situ. In some areas the path veered far enough away that places for  Men's or Women's business, as it is called, was lost from sight. We made our way into another waterhole, impressed with the lack of litter. But we were disappointed to find that many footprints left the barricade at the waterhole itself, regardless of signs explaining the sacred nature of the spot and inviting people to sit and reflect on what they were seeing and feeling. It is a shady rest area, the plunge of rock above it utterly breathtaking. However, some folks seemed compelled to ignore this request and disturb the shores around the water, even leaving their initals carved into the sand. At one of the several large benches, curving branches pieced together artfully by a skilled craftsperson, and to be clear, placed too far apart along the path, we put up tired feet and ate our packed lunches. By the time we made the water stop around the 1/2 way point, our bottles were low - thank you to whoever built that shelter! Having started the walk late morning, we chose to walk clockwise. I believe the stories are told in that direction anyway. And it meant that for the hottest part of the day we were on the far side of Uluru, the path more shaded even when it swung quite far away from the rock wall. The shady spots made the sun drenched spaces more tolerable - something to aim for! August is late winter here. It would be impossible for me in the heat of January. Only the last leg was into the late afternoon sun, and once we could see the silhouette of the climb, we knew we had made it.

A wonderful, unforgettable walk. We drove to the Arts Centre and the 'Toilets' as they are called here. One last quick look around as everything was shutting down - no time to pick and choose yet again. Someday perhaps I will find a piece of art from Uluru that I simply must have. Until then, photos and memories will suffice.

Uluru: 1st Full Day

The next morning our 6:30 wakeup call coincided with the earlier pick up time for Dawn's Awakening. So that was a scramble! Our guide, Justin, circled around through the resort to pick up the rest of his party and came back for us. Whew! Made it! There were  only 8 pasengers in the van and no sign of Sondra and Gordon - they must have been with a different tour. Too bad. We had hoped to see them again. Anyway, out to another dune we went, a bit closer to Uluru, and out of sight of Kata Tjuta. Cold! I was glad I wore so many layers: underwear, undershirt, tee shirt, jacket, serape, jeans, wool socks, boots. The wrap kept my hands warm in between gulps of hot coffee and chocolate, and there were a couple of big heaters going. The chef handed me a bacon and egg GF sandwich in place of the bun for the others. They take care of me here! Dawn crept slowly across the land, gradually revealing the colours in the tree, shrubs, flowers, and grasses that surrounded us. The stars were replaced by that clear blue with the pale moon still hanging low in the sky as the sun broke the horizon and painted Uluru its brillint rosy hue. Justin was a charming fellow, friendly and gregarioius. He talked o the group, of course, for tour purposes. But in between, he happily carried on individual conversations. Justin was particularily good with 12 year-old James who was full of questions and contributions. Before starting our drive around Uluru, we made a stop at the base of the climb near the start of the Mala walk. Justin made it clear that he, like every employee of the territory that we met, supported the Aboriginal request to forbid the climb - the lives lost, the injuries to persons and the rock itself, the damage to the fragile ancient ecology at its sumit, and the pollution of the waterholes at its base from lack of toilet facilities. But primarily because it was an ancient site, sacred to the four aboriginal peoples who share ownership and responsibility for it. The board governing the site has majority Aboriginal representation, and the climb is destined to end in 2020. If the percentage of tourists wanting to do the climb drops fast enough, they will close it sooner. Justin told us the stories he was allowed to tell, in relation to Urulu. He started with the Mala people, and as we drove, pointed out the features on the rockface that went with the story, ending with the Mala being chased to the south where their story continues. He told the story of Kuniya, the python woman, and Liru, the poisonous snake. We got out and walked into the water hole just below the marks of Kuniya's attack and Liru's death. There was the story, too, of the Lizard man, who left the imprint of his skin when he rolled down the rockface - I bought a book of these stories and more at the Cultural Centre. I also watched 2 women painting and very nearly bought one. The centre houses a good museum, documentary theatre, and two galleries, one strictly local. But no time to decide on a painting. Our last stop was on a low dune for refreshments and an iconic photo. That afternoon we rested and spent time at the resort. Dinner at Banya Bar, Desert Gardens Hotel, was relaxing and delicious, Jack Daniels Manhatten and all. I won't say much about Field of Light that evening. An impressive art installation of ever changing coloured lights over many football sized fields of rolling countryside. Beautiful, but walking through it was enough. I can't imagine what they do with the folks who come for dinner.

Uluru: Ayers Rock Resort 1st Night

At the Outback Pioneer Lodge in the resort, our room was simple but comfortable. The resort as a whole consisted of the lodge, a campground, the more upscale Desert Gardens, and the very upscale Sails in the Desert, as well as a Town Square of shops, and a residential area for the permanent staff. Over the 3 nights that we stayed, we enjoyed our dinners at the Banya Bar (excellent light fare and a Manhatten for me) and at Bough House (excellent mains and a dessert buffet, 2 helpings of pannacotta!), plus breakfast buffet at the Bough House was included, varied and generous.

However, the best dinner was the Sounds of Silence, our introduction to Uluru. As part of our 3 night package at the Lodge, we had just checked in when we had to meet the bus that took a small crowd to a red dune. Up we went to the summit, to be greeted by sparkling wine and canapes (a yummy GF plate for me, of mostly Greek bites), which we consumed while watching the sunset on Uluru and Kata Tjuta, taking lots of photos between mouthfuls. The view was phenomenal, colours in the landscape changing by the minute. And a full moon was rising by the time we started back down to a lovely dining area laid out below crest of the dune. We were seated at a table for 10 - Jackie's family to one side, Sondra and Gordon to the other, from England, and 3 people from China, whose names escaped me, across from us. Dinner was served buffet style, with choice of wine, and a chef who happily pointed out to me what I could and could not eat. There were several meats to choose from and I did have a small slice of kangaroo - good tucker! Everything was delicious. While we were eating a man played a didgeridoo, more beautifully than I have ever heard. The wine flowed, everyone beamed with happiness, and the conversation was great. Two men with faces and torsos painted danced traditional pieces using recorded accompaniment of women's singing and percussion. Mysterious and wonderful. While we enjoyed the dessert buffet and port, tea, and coffee, Taylor used a laser pointer to show us the constrellations. She gave us both the ancient Western and Aboriginal mythologies. Two telescopes were set up so we had a look at Saturn and the beautiful full moon.

The Drive to Uluru

It was almost 11 a.m. by the time we set out to drive to Uluru on August 19. June at the Information Centre had booked unlimited miles for us at Thrifty's - it's the only way because the dealers limit is 100 km per day and charge 25 cents and up per extra km! Anyway, we kept the Camry which meant we had to stay on the sealed roads. No time for 4x4 detours anyway :)

After a false start past the airport heading down a country road to Santa Teresa (ack!) we backtracked and found the Stuart Highway south towards Adelaide, which took us as far as Erldunda. There we turned onto the Lassiter Highway heading west to Uluru and the Outback Pioneer Lodge at Ayers Rock Resort. We did stop briefly at a few spots for refreshments or to see birds, and to have a look from the Mt. Connor look out. The CD that described the history and geography of the land as we drove through it was a great help, and most interesting: MacDonnell Ranges, the James Range, Finke River, Mt. Connor, and finally Uluru and Kata Tjutu.

Jumping Ahead to Yellow Waters

This is a test really. I am trying different ways to post photos from JD’s library to my trip posts and blogs. A couple of crocs by the Yellow Waters in Kakadu National Park!