Way Outback Camping in Kakadu Day 2

As soon as we finished breakfast Kim drove us to the Yellow Waters Cruise. This was on a billabong which is part of the Jimjim waterways. It becomes a huge floodplain in the wet season. Even at the end of the dry, looking from the dock, the water stretched off in all directions around and through thick vegetation. In the distance we could see a field where a small herd on brumbies (wild horses) grazed. As luck would have it, and such luck remained with us throughout our stay in Australia, the guide on the cruise boat was absolutely fantastic. When he caught on to the fact that several in our party were interested, he made sure to point out birds as well as crocodiles along the way. Female crocs kept a territory of 20-30 metres along the banks. So we saw lots of them. The big 4.8 metre male cruised along beside us at times. Funnily, he ducked underwater in distain for the advances of one female. The birds, too numerous to name them all, kept us busy looking here and there. A comb-crested jacana walked on thin stilt legs over the huge lotus leaves. A brilliant tiny azure kingfisher posed for photos. And our barge glided up to the bank so we could see the perfect little basket that was a willy wagtail nest. Somewhere during the cruise, a lone water buffalo stood in the brush close to the water, never quite revealing his entire enormous self. The canopy above the seats on the deck cut the direct sun, making it comfortable. We stayed out on the water for the entire morning.

We had lunch back at camp Cooinda then quickly packed and cleaned the tents and cookhouse. It was another long drive to Kakadu Lodge at Jabiru. Along the way, we took in Nourlangie, a good walk and climb that gave us some idea of the way Aboriginal people lived in this place over the centuries. Kim was pretty well-versed in the lore. At the start of the walk was a sign featuring six photos. But 3 had been removed. That followed the tradition of removing the name and image of someone after death, the length of time depending on the customs of the particular community. Hoever, one gentleman, Big Bill Niedjie, instrumental in the development of Kakadu National Park, and its recognition as a heritage site, held his wake before he died. He told his people he would find hs way back to country in three days. Bill declared that they could restore his image and use his name then. He wanted Kakadu and its stories shared with visitors. We visited several caves and rock art galleries. Kim told the stories very well.

It was hot! By the time we made our way to Kakadu Lodge, we were ready for a break. This campground was crowded and at the edge of the grounds, with the wash house quite a walk away. But in the centre stood a bar and pool, encircled with a hedge, lawn, tables and chairs. We quickly organized the tents and headed for the pool for a refreshing swim.

The walk and climb up Ubirr was even more spectacular than Nourlangie. The aim was to watch the sunset from Ubirr but there were a number of rock art galleries along the path to the summit. As we left the main gallery we found an observer above us - a small grey walleroo. Beautiful thing! With a bit of effort, we came up onto a plateau, a flat open space cut with a few rock walls. The final height, which promised a 365 degree view loomed above us. And a lot of people were heading up, including families with small children. However, a bunch of us skipped the final climb, settled onto a low wall with our cameras, and the sunset was beautiful anyway!

Once the sun was down, we quickly descended in the twilight, the afterglow. It was quite dark by the time the stragglers made it back to the van. Kim whipped up another terrific meal and we all tucked in. After dinner, the evening was quieter than the previous one. The wash house was busy with showers after the heat of the day, and the two climbs. It was early to bed that night.