Monday, September 05, 2016

Uluru: 1st Full Day

The next morning our 6:30 wakeup call coincided with the earlier pick up time for Dawn's Awakening. So that was a scramble! Our guide, Justin, circled around through the resort to pick up the rest of his party and came back for us. Whew! Made it! There were  only 8 pasengers in the van and no sign of Sondra and Gordon - they must have been with a different tour. Too bad. We had hoped to see them again. Anyway, out to another dune we went, a bit closer to Uluru, and out of sight of Kata Tjuta. Cold! I was glad I wore so many layers: underwear, undershirt, tee shirt, jacket, serape, jeans, wool socks, boots. The wrap kept my hands warm in between gulps of hot coffee and chocolate, and there were a couple of big heaters going. The chef handed me a bacon and egg GF sandwich in place of the bun for the others. They take care of me here! Dawn crept slowly across the land, gradually revealing the colours in the tree, shrubs, flowers, and grasses that surrounded us. The stars were replaced by that clear blue with the pale moon still hanging low in the sky as the sun broke the horizon and painted Uluru its brillint rosy hue. Justin was a charming fellow, friendly and gregarioius. He talked o the group, of course, for tour purposes. But in between, he happily carried on individual conversations. Justin was particularily good with 12 year-old James who was full of questions and contributions. Before starting our drive around Uluru, we made a stop at the base of the climb near the start of the Mala walk. Justin made it clear that he, like every employee of the territory that we met, supported the Aboriginal request to forbid the climb - the lives lost, the injuries to persons and the rock itself, the damage to the fragile ancient ecology at its sumit, and the pollution of the waterholes at its base from lack of toilet facilities. But primarily because it was an ancient site, sacred to the four aboriginal peoples who share ownership and responsibility for it. The board governing the site has majority Aboriginal representation, and the climb is destined to end in 2020. If the percentage of tourists wanting to do the climb drops fast enough, they will close it sooner. Justin told us the stories he was allowed to tell, in relation to Urulu. He started with the Mala people, and as we drove, pointed out the features on the rockface that went with the story, ending with the Mala being chased to the south where their story continues. He told the story of Kuniya, the python woman, and Liru, the poisonous snake. We got out and walked into the water hole just below the marks of Kuniya's attack and Liru's death. There was the story, too, of the Lizard man, who left the imprint of his skin when he rolled down the rockface - I bought a book of these stories and more at the Cultural Centre. I also watched 2 women painting and very nearly bought one. The centre houses a good museum, documentary theatre, and two galleries, one strictly local. But no time to decide on a painting. Our last stop was on a low dune for refreshments and an iconic photo. That afternoon we rested and spent time at the resort. Dinner at Banya Bar, Desert Gardens Hotel, was relaxing and delicious, Jack Daniels Manhatten and all. I won't say much about Field of Light that evening. An impressive art installation of ever changing coloured lights over many football sized fields of rolling countryside. Beautiful, but walking through it was enough. I can't imagine what they do with the folks who come for dinner.

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